Peggy's Cove NS

The grandest of them all - the lighthouse at Peggy's Cove. Everytime I turned my head I had to take another picture. There's not much more that can be said. I share a few of the images here.

I'm in Halifax tonight and leaving very early in the morning to return home.

 

...... It's been a great vacation.

 

 

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Paradise - aka Mahone Bay

Funny how much more we appreciate the good times after the bad. Tell your friends, "Go the Fisherman's Daughter B&B in Mahone Bay". I am so happy to be here. This town is amazing, the people are amazing, the view is amazing. I have not posted a bathroom picture since the Camino, but check this out. And just being in this bedroom makes me smile.

There is a Tea Brewery here where I spent an hour and I even found a chiropractor who help me because my back has been killing me from driving.

But the very best part of all is everyone's friend 'Max''.

 

 

 

 

 

View from the B&B. The last leg of my trip starts tomorrow when I return to Halifax, but it before visiting Peggy's Cove.

 

 

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Lunenburg NS

Shelbourne is the prettiest little historic town. I Really enjoyed walking along the boardwalk by the water looking at museums and craft shops. I wish I had stayed here last night, but at least spent a couple of hours this a.m.

 

I do believe that Lunenburg is a tourist trap. I understand that tourism is probably their main source of income, but all the prices are higher than in Halifax, which doesn't make sense. $52 for whale watching? I'll watch a YouTube video I think. There are some pretty nice ships to see here though, so would definitely recommend making a pit-stop.

And not to be a complainer, (what would a vacation be without at least a couple of complaints?) but here is what I recommend about booking a B&B online.

1. Check the reviews before booking
   
2. Assume that if it costs $55 per night incl. breakfast that you don't want to stay there
3. Make sure it is IN the town your going to and not 10k out
4. If a very large host answers the door in a smelly and dirty wife-beater shirt it's not a good sign

And the worst thing is when you realize that you've booked this really bad place for 2 nights. I have to give 48 hrs to cancel the 2nd night, but at $55 I'm going to be outta here tomorrow. Mr. Large Host's girlfriend just arrived. Oh geez, I'm being too judgmental. The good thing, besides the price, is the view of the little boats across the road.

 

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Digby to Pubnico NS

Yesterday was quite foggy with a steady drizzle all day. I didn't mind because it gave this fishing town a mystical quality. Joe took me to see this balancing rock and I half expected to see a ghost ship break through the fog. Joe was such great company and we talked about everything imaginable.

This morning the fog was gone and I woke up to a beautiful sunrise. I would have loved to stay in Digby and hang out with my new friend, but rooms had been booked and reality was calling, so I said a sad goodbye. I then proceeded to get lost 4 times before remembering that I have a GPS! At one point I ended up at the fishing wharf. Sometimes getting lost can be sorta fun.

 



Tonight when I went out for dinner I had a nice surprise when this Nova Scotia Country Band started playing some toe tapping music :)

 

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The Long Way To Digby

It's about 120km or so from Wolfville to Digby. So it should take about 1.5 hrs to drive right? Wrong. It took me closer to 4 hrs because I thought I should be able to find a way to drive along the ocean. After crawling along gravel, bumpy, winding roads for two hours all I had to show for it was this picture of a lighthouse (and likely a few chips of paint gone from the rental). I finally decided that the only way I was going to make it was to find the highway. Easier said than done when you're in the middle of nowhere. I did make a few interesting stops along the way; one at Annapolis Royal and the other at Bear River. I toured the oldest wooden house in Canada, built in the 1700s and had a personal tour of the Bear River Winery. My tour guide Bonnie is from the U.S. and is about the 10th person who has told me that they came here on vacation and never left.

Now here I am in Digby and no, I did not take a photo of the scallops I had for dinner to make you envious. The B&B I am staying in is called Come From Away. How is it possible that each place I stay gets better? I have the most amazing view ever and a friendly (and good looking) host. Joe has a 14 year old Airedale 'Todd' who makes me miss my Daisy. It looks like I'm going to be out of here just in time before the annual biker rally next weekend when there'll be 25,000 bikers in town!

The docks here are specially built to rise and fall with the tides. In the picture the tide is fairly low. When it gets higher those steps will rise with the dock. Since there are Whale Watching tours here, and if I can get beyond my sea sickness concerns, it might be my plan for tomorrow.

 

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Wolfville NS and Area

L'Acadie Blanc Grapes

I only had two things planned for today; find my next Bed & Breakfast and visit a winery. I ended up visiting two wineries, 9 towns and meeting a well known local watercolour artist. When I pulled up the lane of the B&B I started to worry. No one was there and a note was posted 'be back at 3:00'. But what worried me was that the place looked like a dive that was very old with overgrown weeds. The web site made it sound luxurious and I started preparing my speech about false advertising. About 3:30 I met the owner and hesitantly went inside. "You can't tell a book by its cover" is an understatement, because this place really is beautiful.

In my bedroom there are two watercolour paintings and I soon discovered that the whole house was full of paintings by the same artist. I asked who she was and learned that 'Linda Backhouse' lived very close by; so I set out on my mission to find her. Nine towns later we met. Linda and I talked for about an hour and she explained many of her techniques as well as tips on other things to see in the area. Since I couldn't afford one of her actual paintings I bought greeting cards and bookmarks. This is just a photo of a greeting card, but you get the idea of her work. She told me I could come back and take classes from her so now another idea is brewing in my mind :)

 

Is it possible to eat too much seafood? Tonight Seafood Chowder and, because I'm on vacation , I introduce you to ...... Peanut Butter Chocolate Cheesecake! I think tomorrow is going to have to be another walking day!

 

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Tired and Stuffed - Halifax Day II

I'm exhausted. But in a good way :) Walked and ate so much! I started out the day with waffles with warm homemade wild blueberry sauce and coffee at the B&B. Then to Halifax and onto the Harbour Hopper; a very expensive, but fun motor/amphibian tour.

Next was the Nova Scotia Art Gallery, where I saw the Maud Lewis exhibition. In case you don't know who Maud Lewis is, please check this out; It can't help but make you smile. The rest of the exhibitions were rather confusing. I never understand when large galleries feature art that honestly looks like crap. The one thing good that came from it was that I left there feeling like I was better at painting than most of them (or maybe I just don't get it)

Then onto the Public Garden where you see the most beautiful art ever, compliments of Mother Nature. I enjoyed myself here more than at the art gallery and happened to be present during the Dahlia exhibition. Am I sounding like a senior citizen when I say that? I don't care. When I get home I am painting Dahlias!

 

At the park at the mouth of the harbour I did lots more walking. I was so tired that I sat down to watch the ships come into the harbour and noded off. I wasn't sure if I was more tired or hungry, but the hunger won :) Even though I had eaten lobster roll for lunch (chopped up lobster on a bun); when in Halifax.....

 

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Halifax

"Yesterday is swept away along the windy shore. No tomorrow by the sea... is like the day before" Those are the words written at the B&B that I stayed in last night. I had planned to go on a rant about the evils of airports but after reading that, I told myself to "let it go".

This morning I went to Pier 21 where I was hit with a very powerful dose of reality. Pier 21 is the harbor where every immigrant and all WW II troops passed through going in and out of Canada. The immigrants had been on ships for 2-3 weeks, often sick the whole way and leaving loved ones, whom they never saw again. I watched a very sobering movie that left me very choked up and I wish that all Canadians could have the opportunity to see it. I will never complain about airports again.

On a lighter note ..... I'm in HALIFAX! Why have I never come here before??? It really is very beautiful. People have been telling me that for years so it's nice to finally see it myself. After Pier 21 I had the most delicious organic avocado sandwich on the waterfront and then toured the Maritime Museum, another place full of history and amazing ship stuff. I also learned about the Halifax explosion, a very sad event in 1917 when two ships collided. The one carrying explosives blew up, destroying the city and killing many.

After eating an 800 cal moody gooey ice cream, this was supper :) Mussels and Oyster yummmm!

And then ... what better way to end my 1st day of vacation than a sailing tour of the harbour!

 

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Sometimes the Answer is to Run Away

I went to a book club gathering recently where we discussed Jane Christmas’ What the Psychic Told the Pilgrim. After walking the Camino de Santiago last year I have not read a single ‘pilgrim experience’ novel because now I have my personal story and it is sacred to me. So when a member of the book club asked me to join in on this one I was reluctant. But I loved this book! Maybe it had something to with the fact that I could relate so completely with the author, but I think that anyone, whether planning on walking the Camino or not, would enjoy it. There was one little drawback from the read though. I started reminiscing and feeling very sad because I want to return to the Camino so badly. Now before you start thinking, “What? You crazy lady you’re going to walk across Spain again?”; No, I’m not in a position to do that right now … but I wish. 

Two days ago I came home from work, sat in a chair in my living room, and started to cry. I’m not a big crier and tend to stay positive about every situation, thinking each challenge is really a new opportunity. But this time I felt beat; mentally exhausted and worn down. You know the feeling I’m sure. The reports, assessments, consultations, objectives, deadlines, were swimming around in my mind and even though it was 5:00 Friday of a long weekend I wept. So what did I do? I called my mother and said, “I’m going to Nova Scotia”. That’s right; when life is getting you down sometimes the best answer is to run away for a while, gain a new perspective and have some fun.

I woke up the next morning and instead of my usual Saturday routine of market, laundry, cleaning; I sat down at my computer and booked a flight that leaves for Halifax in 3 weeks. As soon as I had done it I started to smile and then got a great deal on a car rental too.  I feel renewed and a few years younger just thinking about the adventure.

For anyone who has never taken a vacation by themselves, I strongly recommend trying it one day. I learned the benefits of travelling alone while walking the Camino. When you are not constantly engaged with someone else you become engaged with the world. You see more, listen more, and meet new and interesting people. You never have to negotiate  ‘what to do next’ or wait for hours for someone to browse in a shop you have no interest in. Travelling alone means doing exactly what you want to do, when you want to do it; walking, driving, sleeping, eating whenever you want. It’s paradoxically a complete hedonistic and mind opening experience all in one.  That sounded a bit deep, but honestly, I know so many people who would never think of travelling alone and I personally love the experience.

I will fly into Halifax and start driving along the South Shore with no plan other than that. Spontaneity at it’s finest. 

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Lesson Learned on the Camino de Santiago

I am a member of Toastmasters and recently gave a speech about my Camino experience. This is what I said.

As I walked 700 km across Spain and between 6 – 8 hours per day, I had a lot of time to think. I’ve been asked, “What did you learn?” My first few days home I didn’t know how to answer that question but I realize now. My #1 lesson on the Camino de Santiago – The Value of Time.

A few weeks ago we gained an hour and there probably is not a person who wasn’t happy about that. We all know that time is a commodity, a precious thing to have more of. It is so important that there are university courses offered in Time Management. We have calendars, organizers, watches, alarms and most importantly, smartphones that provide all of the above.

With all this focus on time and schedules you would think we all understand the value of time. But do we really? It’s not hard to imagine that a person, who has been given a couple of months to live, really understands the value of time. So how did walking the Camino help me to learn this?

Those who have walked before have said, “There are 3 stages of suffering to overcome while on the Camino. These stages are physical, mental, and spiritual suffering”

When I began walking from St. Jean Pied de Port on Sept 5th I was heading up the Pyrenee mountains. My body was in no way conditioned to be walking up a mountain and especially not for 25km. I was carrying 18 lbs on my back and was struggling with a pre-existing lung condition. I would see a very long steep hill ahead of me and, one step at a time, would focus on making it to the top. As I approached the top it was never the top at all; it would just be a curve and I kept going up and up and up for hours! My legs were hurting; my shoulders were aching and my heart and lungs were saying “are you trying to kill me?!” I was so consumed with my physical discomfort and effort that I was expending, that I missed most of the beauty of the Pyrenees. Every so often I would stop, sit and look about me, and it was only at those moments that I was blown away by the amazing site before me. Then I would start to walk again and focus on nothing but my own discomfort.

This period of overcoming my physical suffering lasted approximately 10 days. The second stage was one of overcoming mental suffering. The walking was almost effortless and I could no longer feel the weight on my back. The heat of the sun continued to drain my energy and threatened to burn through my skin as I walked for about 8 hours a day across the flat plains of the Meseta region. Boredom began to threaten my sanity, as I started to make rhythms with my walking poles. I began to count as my poles touched the ground. 12345678……. 12345678. Over and over again. At one point I became angry. Angry that these French people couldn’t speak English; angry when I couldn’t get wifi; angry that there was never any toilet paper or soap! There were moments when I could see the beauty and was in awe as I walked through the quaint little towns that had been there for 100s of years. But for so much of the time I was wrapped up in my annoyance and my judgments and the HEAT!

Then came the last phase of the Camino – overcoming spiritual suffering. I cannot say what day it was that I realized my mind had become empty. I simply didn’t have a thought left in it. I didn’t know what time it was, or where I’d even end up each day. Several times I didn’t even know what day it was. As I walked I began to see many beautiful things. In fact almost every little thing I saw was beautiful! I saw every wild flower along the dusty paths; I enjoyed the sheep and cows that I shared the roads with. As the days were getting shorter and I almost always started walking in the dark, I was amazed by every single sunrise.

It was during this time that I met a man who had been walking for 5 months. He was sitting at a café in a little village and had other pilgrims gathered around him. One person asked him, “What is one thing you’ve learned on your walk?” He answered, “I’ve learned the value of time. I am a rich man because I have time to be here and to be sitting in this village in Spain talking to you today. Most people will tell you that time is money but they are wrong; Time is Life.”

As I was approaching the end of my journey I thought about this. I thought about the ways I had spent time in my life, but even more so about how I had allowed my time….. or MY LIFE, to be taken over by the demands of others.

Now that I am home, my Camino continues and I have a new challenge; To live in the world with its demands and its schedules and its technology; while at the same time appreciating each minute and opening my mind and my eyes to the beauty around me. It is only when I do this that I truly understand the Value of Time.

Post Camino

I went for a walk in the rain today. After 35 rain free days in Spain it has not stopped since my return to Canada. It seems fitting somehow, so let it rain. The weather sort of fits with my mood about being back home. I love my family, my dog, my home, my life, but miss the Camino like crazy. I have Camino dreams every night where I'm just walking. I wake up and have no idea where I am and one time I thought I was in a stone room, just like the Albergue at Ribadiso. I sat up, looked around and everything in my bedroom literally looked like stone in the darkness. I've been keeping myself busy but would rather be walking and according to the local weather forecast this rain is not going to stop anytime soon. Hey now's my chance to use that expensive raincoat that I carried across Spain!

People ask me, "what did you learn on the Camino?". Walking for 33 days changed the way I viewed the world. In the beginning I was so focused on how difficult it was and my discomfort and on 'just getting there'. Unfortunately when I walked over the Pyrenees I don't feel that i really saw the beauty because I was too wrapped up in the pain. As time progressed I got into the rhythm of walking and my body became stronger. It never stopped being difficult to walk over 20 per day though. What changed the most was my outlook of the world as I walked. Spain is very, very beautiful and I saw amazing mountain views as well as quaint little medieval villages and peaceful rivers. I stopped being worried about my destination and getting somewhere in time to get a bed. I began to enjoy every moment. I'm trying to imagine how this will still be possible when I return to work in a few days and will be sitting at a desk. It will certainly be an opportunity to practice keeping myself in the present moment. (That was me being positive about returning to work).

I've already started looking at other Camino paths, then immediately told myself, "are you crazy? It's too hard". Time will tell. Right now I'm going to my daughter's school to speak to a bunch of 12 and 13 year olds about a career choice in IT. Maybe I'll tell them to get an education so they can get a great job so that they can walk across Spain one day! :)
Buen Camino

Santiago - continued

I've been having a fabulous time in Santiago. Last night Jutta and I shared an amazing seafood meal that made us both a bit queazy afterwards, but we had a lot of fun and it was delicious. Jutta is the most special person I have met on the Camino. She is from Germany, speaks English quite well and I think she is terrific!

Today started out quite amazing because I slept until 9:00 a.m.! Then I got ready to meet Jutta at the cathedral. This cathedral production is incredible and hard to fathom. We got there at 10:30 for the noon mass. There was already a mass in progress that had started at 10:00 and we walked into the church, prepared to grab the first available pew. It sounds crazy, but most people have to stand during the mass and seats are at a premium. Jutta and I got a seat very close to the front and were prepared to sit through yet another Spanish mass to see the incense chalice. I am not a religious person, but as part of the pilgrim tradition had to see this. And it happened..... a special moment.

After the mass our little Camino group met outside the cathedral for hugs and pictures and then we all went for lunch. Jutta and I decided that since we had come to the end of our high calorie lifestyle we should have one last hooray! We went to a special cafe and ordered more than the average person's intake of sweets for some sugar closure.

We then decided that we should have a picnic for supper and arranged to meet at 7:00 for a feast in the park of sausage, cheese, bread, and fruit. We ate and talked for a long time and ended up back at the cathedral where we sat and listened to a Celtic band. It has been a beautiful end to an amazing experience as I will leave Santiago tomorrow.

Santiago de Compostela

The emotional time at the cathedral square turned into overwhelming exhaustion. I needed to go to the pilgrims office to receive the Compostela so that I could then find a place to rest. It wasn't hard to find and there was hardly any wait. This document is all in Latin, including my name, Catharinan Junian McCoy. As I left the pilgrim office a women was standing in the street recruiting people to stay in a hotel nearby. It would be 30€ but at least I had my own room, even if the bathroom was down the hall. It's not so bad here really, very clean and I have a few out onto the street.

The next thing on the agenda was to go to the cathedral to touch the figure of the apostle St. James. this is all part of the pilgrim tradition and not to be missed. The cathedral is elaborate and one might say, "over the top". The pilgrims line up behind the apostle figure and then climb the marble stairs that lead behind him, where it it tradition to hug him or touch his cloak. If you look closely at the picture below you can see there is a man behind St James and touching him. I sat in the cathedral for some time after this, just soaking in the whole experience. And then it was time to go for a walk!

I'll be moving into a nicer room in this place for Saturday and Sunday. This old part of Santiago is very beautiful. I like to just sit in the little plaza by my new hotel, watch people go by and feed the pigeons. Every so often I see fellow pilgrims that I've met on the way and we have a chat about our experience. There are a lot of shops with loads of stuff to buy, but so far I've only purchased a pashmina for 5€ since it's turned quite cold!

Saturday noon:
I went to the pilgrims mass today at the cathedral. Sometimes they light a large incense chalice that you can see hanging in this picture, but today they didn't and now I will need to go back tomorrow because everyone says they will on Sunday. Church twice in one weekend? Amazing I know! I was sitting close to the incredible pipes of the organ that you see in the picture below.