Friday, October 7, 2011

Day 33 - Santa Irene to Santiago - 24 km

I knew as soon as my feet hit the floor this morning that I would be going to Santiago. They were not feeling sore anymore and I was full of excitement to reach my destination. After a great breakfast of toast with jam, Melba toast with cheese, orange juice and cafe con leche, I set out in the dark. I hadn't taken out my headlamp so it was a bit tricky going through the woods. I've tried to capture the darkness in the picture, therefore it's pretty much just a picture of nothing :) As I walked along I just about jumped out of my skin when a booming voice came at me from the right side of the path. It was a stupid motion detected billboard from an Albergue up ahead, welcoming me to the Camino. This thing is one of the dumbest things I've ever seen.

I felt so full of energy that I was walking much faster than my usual pace. I was even passing the tourist pilgrims, who now had blisters and tendinitis from going too fast. In my excitement I neglected to stop after a couple of hours and to take off my boots. After about 12 km my left calf started to cramp up so I slowed down. But the cramping only got worse the more I walked so I finally took off my boots for a rest and a stretch. By now the pain was not going away and I'd acquired a bit of a limp. It was nothing too major though and the limp made me more authentic walking into Santiago with dozens of other pilgrims who all had limps too! In this picture is Capilla San Rogue at Lavacolla, about 10 km from Santiago.

Just before the walk into the city many pilgrims were gathered outside this quaint little church, Capilla San Marcos, for a final rest. I found it amusing that right outside the church there was a concession stand selling beer and pop and playing Adele 'Rolling in the Deep'.

It took about an hour and a half to walk into and through the city from San Marcos. These golden scallop shells in the sidewalk marked the way. It was one of the weirdest experiences and I don't think I'll ever forget it. Walking through the streets of the busy city with my backpack and poles, dodging traffic, moving off the walkways before groups of school children pushed me onto the street. No old men waiting in the streets to point the direction with their canes. No old women blowing kisses and saying Buen Camino. Everyone rushing and nobody paying any attention at all to those darn pilgrims who don't pay attention to the street signs. These people must get so sick of pilgrims getting in their way. For a minute I was thinking, "hey, I just walked across this whole country to be here", and there I was, just another person in the way. Very humbling experience really.

Eventually the busy city became the old city and a sense that I was getting closer to the church. As I turned down a street I could hear bagpipes. They were being played by this fellow for change and I stopped to give him some because the beautiful sound sure intensified the amazing experience of walking into the cathedral square.

I stood for some time, just looking at the cathedral more in awe that I'd made it there than in the church itself. I became quite choked up and did not try to hold back the tears. After subtracting bus distance I have walked 700 km across Spain. Now that is something.

14 comments:

  1. Congratulations! I am not surprised to hear you walked the rest all in one day- there is something about the end in Santiago that calls loudly when you are nearly there.... I hope you get to see some of the fellow walkers you know as you walk around in the city and Cathedral. And safe travels home. Margaret

    ReplyDelete
  2. Congratulations! Like there was any doubt. Enjoy the rest of your time. That really is a beautiful Cathedral.
    Dawn

    ReplyDelete
  3. Congratulations Mom! I'm at nana's with Gianni, Nino and Daisy for thanksgiving And i raed tour final camino post outloud. You madre me tear Up - embarrassing! :p We love you and are proud of you!

    ReplyDelete
  4. Damn Spanish spell check really screwed that up. I'm sure you'll figure it out though

    ReplyDelete
  5. Congratulations Catherine! You are a great journalist, story teller and photographer. Many here at the office have been following your trek! I've enjoyed every post you've made!
    Take cake and enjoy the rest of your trip!
    Joe Gregorio

    ReplyDelete
  6. Catherine,

    First, way to go Girl!

    Second, just to let you know I have Camino friends from all over the world that have been following you. You have no idea how much you have effected a lot of people's lives. From some of us who need that little kick to get out there for our daily walks, to others who have daily struggles with life, you have been helping us.

    Third, if you do have any time left, take a bus to Finisterre, the 'end of the world'. You are so close to the end of the world, why not go and check it out? But take the bus, you have walked way too far already!

    Fourth, there is a Canadian Litle Company of Pilgrim meeting in Toronto on November 5th - the biggest gathering of English speaking pilgrims in the world. Of the 300 or so people who will show up, about half are veterns like you (awesome, you have done it!), and rookies like me who need to tap your experiences so that we do not make the mistakes I made my first time there. I am going for sure, so if you are homesick for pilgrims by then, let me know.

    Fifth, it is really awesome to say I know you (although we have never met). You did it. The entire trail! Way to go girl!!!!!!!

    ReplyDelete
  7. THANK YOU SO MUCH EVERYONE! I appreciate you support more than you know; it's my little link to home and things familiar. And to you Very special people who I have not even met, I am honored that you have been part of my journey. I think I might go check out that bus trip to Finisterre now Tim.

    ReplyDelete
  8. Congratulations: I have so enjoyed reading and vicariously experiencing the camino once again through your eyes and words. Have a wonderful finish to your trip, and savour the memories. Hope to see you at the Canadian Company of Pilgrims meeting in Toronto - I help to organize it!
    Darlene

    ReplyDelete
  9. Oh wow...a heartfelt congratulations!!! I'm sitting here laughing out loud at the sign that talks...I nearly came out of my skin in the dark too! I was simply, in the end, proud that I didn't scream!! Well done and Congratulations!!

    ReplyDelete
  10. Thanks to you fellow former pilgrims for the congrats. It means a lot to me that you were following my journey. I have yet to write my last post about arriving home. I think tomorrow will be the day for that. Buen Camino. :)

    ReplyDelete
  11. Catherine, Years later someone is still enjoying your journey! I have two friends walking the Camino, a couple days from Santiago now and found your blog from the start and used it to follow their every step and know what they were experiencing.......you did an amazing job, on the walk, on the blog, on the pictures and I thank you for letting me join you on your trek! I kind of feel like I know you....

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks for your message kidough. A day does not go by that I don't think about the Camino and is been almost 3 years. So hapoy to hear of others following their own journey.

      Delete
    2. Do you think you'll do it or one of the other trail options again? I especially liked your entry about after the return home, I imagine my friends will feel the same way, the whole prospect of how do you stop walking and go back to regular life and jobs.....what an experience you had!

      Delete

Unfortunately I can no longer allow anonymous comments due to spammers.