Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Day 10 - Ventosa to Santo Domingo - 32 km

Nope. Didn't walk 32 km. After a great night's sleep at Ventosa I started out in the dark at 6:30 a.m. There is no conscious decision on my part to start walking at this ridiculous hour. When your in a room full of people who are packing and shining their flashlights around and basically making a whole lot of racket, there is no hope of sleep. Walking really is the only other option and of course it makes sense to spend as much time out of the sun as possible. But walking yesterday in the dark was a lot different than today. The moon was covered by clouds and there were no lights of any kind to show us the way down the very dark path through the vineyards. One French fellow came along with a flashlight and I had to walk very fast to keep up with him. I should mention that I'm definitely one of the slowest walkers on the Camino. Almost everyone passes me. I thought that I was in pretty good shape, but most North Americans don't compare to most Europeans. Take the Irish for example; There are a lot of hills in Ireland and many walking groups. Hills don't seem to phase these people who have been walking up them their whole lives. As I walk through towns of Spain that are built on the mountain side I see very old woman and men trekking up and down like they are part mountain goat. Anyway, back to the French guy with the flashlight. We started going up a very rocky hillside and about half way up I was sure I'd have a heart attack, so I just had to stop right there and let him go on. I thought it might have nice if he were to slow down just until daybreak, but he was on a mission apparently. My eyes adjusted enough after awhile to see the rocks, but I was having a lot of problems seeing the yellow arrows. Soon the sun started to rise over the hills and all was well.

By 9:00 a.m. I had walked 12 km and was approaching Najera. The city of Najera is very dirty. It's hard to fathom the difference from one city to the next. I made a decision while I was walking the 12 km that the rest of today would be a day off. After 10 days of walking about 200 km i figured i could use a little rejuvenation. So I went straight to the bus terminal and 45 min later was on my way to Santo Domingo. Nice, nice place this Santo Domingo. Fairy tale medievalish. At the centre of the old city is the cathedral, but more about that in my next post. Next to the Cathedral is the Parador hotel; a luxury hotel converted from the ancient pilgrim's hospital. And guess who's staying there tonight? This is a little slice of heaven and I plan to enjoy every minute of it! The 1st hour was spent here.

Following the most amazing bath of my life, I went out to eat ..... and eat ..... and eat some more. This food it so amazing. How can we get food so wrong in North America? First I went to a little cafe and ordered a bunch of delicious appetizers, then to an abaceria where I ordered these chocolate treats and cafe con leche. Then I bought fruit and cheese at the market. I want to walk to every place I see and eat all this delicious food. Then I explored the streets and shops of the old city. Now for a rest, so I can eat some more at dinner with pilgrim friends.

8 comments:

  1. Way to go! You know how to take care of yourself. I'm sure you will be back on the road rejeuvenated and ready to climb those hills, though I think you are near the Meseta - hills are gentler, and there will be many flat days.
    Enjoy every moment!
    Darlene

    ReplyDelete
  2. Thanks Darlene! I know that some people say the Meseta is boring, but I'm honestly looking forward to a few days with no hills!

    ReplyDelete
  3. I agree about the food in North America. We're totally getting ripped off. That's the wort part of coming home, from anywhere really

    I also really enjoy the fact that you're stayin in a luxury hotel tonight. Good call :)

    ReplyDelete
  4. Sounds awesome Catherine!

    ReplyDelete
  5. Way to go Catherine, staying in a hotel with a 'real' bathroom! And the food looks scrumptious. You deserve every treat on that plate! To flatter land and good health . . .

    ReplyDelete
  6. Hi Catherine! Jenn and I enjoyed this evening with you very much. And we agree that the food, wine and coffee of Spain are wonderful. We are enjoying your blog and we look forward to returning soon (hopefully with my husband and boys too!) I will be praying for a safe and very blessed continued Camino. Buen Camino!!!

    Lauren (the female one :0)

    ReplyDelete
  7. hello again Catherine. it has been over a year since we had dinner in santo domingo. i hope you are well. i am planning on walking the camino frances in sept/oct 2013, Lord willing. i am very much enjoying your blog again and with share it with my (hopefully) walking partners. it will give them a very good taste of the camino. thank you for sharing with us!
    buen camino!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Lauren I am so happy to hear from you! And also envious of you walking the Camino again :) it is not in the cards for me right now.... But I really do hope someday again. If you can send me your email address through here I always moderate all comments now and will not publish. I have something special to send you. ( also do you have the other Lauren's email? )
      Buen Camino ..... Catherine

      Delete

Unfortunately I can no longer allow anonymous comments due to spammers.