Day 15 - Castrojeriz to Boadilla del Camino - 20 km

Written sept 19th

I went downstairs to the restaurant at 7:30 this morning to meet Giancarlo for breakfast. He said, "Catherine I have bad news" and showed me his leg where tendinitis had flared up and made walking too painful. He would have to stay in Castrojeriz, get medical attention and probably rest for a few days. This was very disappointing for him and just the type of thing that can put an end to his Camino.

It had turned very cold over night and was only 4 degrees as I walked out of Castrojeriz this morning. I could see my breathe and kept switching poles between hands so that I could alternately warm my fingers in pockets. As I walked down the path I could see the view of the ascent I was about to make. It's funny how these climbs don't seem so daunting anymore and don't trigger the OMG! reaction. What you can't see in the picture above is that 2/3rds of the climb is after you reach the top of that hill. Here is a picture of a couple on a bicycle built for two and they are working very hard! I also passed a tomb stone and I'm sure the poor soul must have died of a heart attack.

At the top of the climb was an enterprising man who made espresso with a propane torch and offered a variety of fruit for hungry pilgrims. He asked for donation only but everyone was so grateful that he was there that I'd bet he does very well.

After about 9 km I came upon this magical Albergue called St. Nicholas that had only 8 beds. If it weren't so early I would have been tempted to stay. A couple of km past this was the town of Itero de la Vega where I enjoyed putting my feet up and eating a bocadilla con jamon y queso. Today I am feeling very good and as I walk I usually forget about my backpack; almost as if it's just another part of my body. The only thing that gets tired are my feet and of course as soon as the temperature starts to rise I start to get low on energy. Today's walk got challenging mid-afternoon since the high was about 26.

I walked 20 km today to a place called Boadilla del Camino. Some of these villages are so small and consist only of Albergues and restaurants, that I'm sure they would not be here at all if it were not for the Camino. The Albergue I'm staying at is called En El Camino and is almost resort-like! The water in that pool is like ice but a good place to soak sore feet. There is no wifi though so this will be posted tomorrow.

A few of us walked over to the 12th century cathedral where I was able to get this picture of the baptismal font. This cathedral I really like. It is very rustic and authentic and has a beautiful simplicity about it. Magical. We had an amazing dinner with 3 different soups and fish and creme de caramel for dessert. We were discussing at dinner if we thought we had lost any weight. Everyone agreed that they had lost inches off the middle and probably gained muscle. They also agreed that it was impossible to eat too much on the Camino. This is my kind of place!